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bon appetit magazine January 2013


bon appétit


Where to Eat and Drink in Miami - bon appétit


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Miami Nice: The Food Scene Is Growing Up. Right about now, you could probably use a little sun, sand, and surf. Thankfully, Florida's most stylish city offers serious rays--and, finally, serious restaurants--to cure your winter blues. Where to Eat and Drink in Miami - bon appetit
The Ultimate Food Court: The most ambitious recent opening is Amir Ben-Zion's Cooper Avenue, a soaring 8,000-square-foot gastro-marketplace next to Frank Gehry's iconic New World Center.
The space's sit-down restaurant offers standouts including cobia fish with salsify. But for something more casual, visit on any weekend afternoon, when the industrial, glass-walled space buzzes with folks strolling about and sampling fun food and drink: sushi, pizza at the bakery, a craft beer at the corner bar, or an espresso at the coffee shop.
Deli Redux: Pastrami on rye and the Cubano are Miami's two most iconic sandwiches. Put 'em together and you've got a Jewban: Cuban bread pressed with pastrami, roast pork, Swiss cheese, and pickles. The man behind this inspired mashup is Josh Marcus, whose Josh's Delicatessen and Appetizing in Surfside is a throwback to the days when deli meats and fish were smoked and cured in-house. Even the bagels are made from scratch.
Rolling in style in South Beach. orange classic cheverolet. CAMAGUEY license plate
Fast Food, Fresh: After a day on the beach, few things refresh better than a chilled bowl of local fish macerated in citrus and bright seasonings. Chef Sam Gorenstein's My Ceviche is a tiny take-out shack only three blocks from the South Beach sand. Besides multiple versions of the namesake item, the day's catch is likewise transformed into lighter and cleaner renditions of traditional tacos and burritos. Grab a table inside the hostel this joint is attached to, or find a spot on a bench outside and take in the laid-back SoFi (South of Fifth) Neighborhood scene.
Thai 2.0: Don't expect to find pad thai at Khong River House. Chef Piyarat Potha Arreeratn (also known as Chef Bee) focuses on specialties of northern Thailand, such as hand-pulled boat noodles in a broth brimming with meats and vegetables. Food from his native Chiang Rai region is the main reason to visit, but there are also dishes inspired b y spots along the Mekong River--China's Yuunan province, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. The concept is authentic, honestly sourced food in cool digs.
Hotel Dining: Those seeking an antidote to overwrought Ocean Drive need only mosey one block west to the James Royal Palm hotel, where Florida Cookery has established itself as one of the season's big stars. Native Southerner Chef Kris Wessel, who also ran the outsanding waterfront restaurant Red Light Little River in the Belle Meade neighborhood, appropriates the Sunshine State's rich melting-pot past and bounty of tropical produce for a hyper-regional slant on tradition. Early hits include cast-iron-seared local frog's legs with almond-jicama stir-fry, and sticky guanabana-glazed ribs with green-papaya slaw.
Sushi Standout: For a one-of-a-kind multicourse omakase experience, reserve at Naoe (na-o-eh) now and you might be able to nab one of the eight available chairs (there are two seatings per evening). Chef Kevin Cory (left) meticulously prepares an $85 prix fixe that includes mushroom-quid dumpling soup, a kaiseki-style bento box (right), and an astonishing procession of nigirizushi rarities, such as sake-simmered live abalone
Ginger-Pumpkin pie at Acme Bekery & Coffee. Sun Baked: Artisan bakeries are sprouting in Miami as thought some magical yeast had been secretly sprinkled on its streets. The most rustic of these new arrivals is Acme Bakery & Coffee in midtown, where nearby residents start their day with a basket of biscuits, scones, and cornbread served with Vermont butter, house-made preserves, and a cup of local Panther Coffee. The same small-batch brew is poured at Lee & Marie's Cakery Company in South Beach, where it pairs perfectly with Belgian pastry chef Yannis Janssen's Dutch -style salty caramel apple pie. At lunchtime, Design District workers head to Crumb on Parchment for homegrown star chef Michelle Bernstein's salads, sandwiches, and house- baked goodies, such as Southern pecan cake with rum buttercream and rich chocolate pudding pie.
Fairwind Hotel on Ocean Drive (Credit: Bill Wisser). In South Beach, Art Deco never gets old.
(Credit: All, Adeline Ramos). It looked as though Miami would forever be the rich, spoiled teenager of American food cities. The collective gastronomic strut suggested style over substance; the unspoken password was glitz over grits. But the Magic City dining scene has been maturing fast, cultivated by a cavalry of neighborhood restaurants, markets, bakeries, and other low-key spots, many owned by local chefs who made their mark helming swankier establishments. The big boys with global cred have set up shop, too, including the likes of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud, and José Andrés, whose restaurant The Bazaar at SLS Hotel South Beach has become the hottest reservation in town. At last, Miami residents can act like proud parents and exclaim, Our city is growing up! --Lee Klein. Lee Klein is a longtime Miami food writer and restaurant reviewer.







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